Fold the stripped wires against the vertical strips to make them stable. This connection uses no soldering, plastic pieces rest on the stripped wires ensuring an electric contact. ![]() ![]() 30圆3mm and place them with the conductive side down as shown.Ĭonnect each conductive side of plastic to an input of the MPR121 located underneath the table tray. Cut 6 pieces of ITO plastic slightly smaller than the size of two pixels i.e. Only 1 side if generally conductive, identify which one thanks to an ohmmeter. This plastic is covered with a thin conductive layer that makes it discrete underneath your glass as well as sensitive to capacitive changes. The method proposed here involves capacitive sensor connected to pieces of ITO plastic. Although they are different and may return different types of output, touch feature can be provided by many kinds of sensors, including infra-red, barycentre of weight, vibration sensing. This step is not required but is an extension if you would like your table to be touch-sensitive. If you meet troubles, find help in the troubleshooting section. Ensure that all pixels are driven and able to light. Place your electronics on the side and jump to next step only after having successfully run at least the colour demonstrator on your new hardware using the -w flag to enable hardware. If something went wrong during soldering you will figure it out during these tests before it becomes less easy to fix the hardware problems. Then follow the Hardware and Software preliminaries until Arbalet firmware is uploaded before continuing. White wires on the diagram are not actual wires but direct male-female connections of PIN headers. Solder the components and connections on the custom board as shown on the diagram. ![]() The custom board will be mounted right above the Arduino board, with its male PIN headers directly plugged in Arduino's female headers, ensuring its fastening as well as its data connection. An optional touch sensor MPR121 connected to 6 active surfaces.A custom PCB, connected to a 5V power supply.An Arduino board, connected to a computer through USB.Step 4: Solder the circuit boardĪrbalet's electronics, illustrated on the diagram, is composed by: It allows to better dispatch the power to avoid a difference of colour at extremities. Connect 5V (red) together, GND (black) together, and DATA (often green or yellow) together, as shown on the electrical diagram next step.Īlso connect the power supply of both extremities (GND to GND and 5V to 5V) via 2 direct wires. Glue the pieces of strips on your pencil lines once you are sure the Data line forms a coil.Ĭut and strip 9x3 = 27 pieces of wires to reconnect the data and power lines between each piece of strip. For this you can rely on their arrows whose direction must change each column: → ← → ← and so on… It is primordial that you alternate each piece of strip. Then pre-place the 10 pieces of strips according to next diagram. The distance between the first and the last (10th) line is 333.3mm. The first column must be traced 83.3mm from the edge, then each line is 33.3mm from the previous one. Using a pencil, trace the lines where you will glue the pieces of strips. You must end up with 10 strips of 15 LEDs, whose one has a male connector. Make sure you cut in the middle of a coppered connection. Using scissors cut the strip every 500mm = 15 LEDs. Use only strips with density of 30 LED/meter, you might want to use other densities but would need to cut the strip at every LED to respect the spacing of 33.3mm ending in a waste of time and effort.
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